Enhancing your vehicle’s performance can be achieved through various modifications, and one of the most impactful DIY upgrades is installing a performance Air Intake Car Part. This modification, while requiring some mechanical aptitude, can significantly improve your engine’s breathing and overall efficiency. This guide details the installation of a high-performance air intake, drawing from a hands-on experience with a Dodge Challenger upgrade.
Parts and Tools for the Air Intake Upgrade
Before starting, ensure you have all the necessary components and tools. For this particular upgrade, involving the installation of a “Hellcat” air duct, you will need:
- Performance Air Intake Kit: Specifically, the “Hellcat” air duct designed for improved airflow. This is the primary air intake car part for this project.
- Radiator Side Shield: Potentially a new side shield or the existing one, depending on your vehicle model and the kit requirements.
- Basic Hand Tools: Screwdrivers, sockets, wrenches.
- Cutting and Grinding Tools: Bench grinder, hacksaw (or similar cutting tool) for modifying plastic and potentially metal components.
- Aluminum Tape: Heavy-duty aluminum tape for sealing and protecting modified areas.
- Push Pins: For securing the modified side shield.
- Safety Gear: Safety glasses and gloves are recommended during the modification process.
Preparation and Component Modification
The installation process begins with preparing the vehicle and modifying certain components to accommodate the new air intake car part. This stage requires careful attention and precision:
- Accessing the Existing Air Intake: Locate and access your vehicle’s factory air intake system. This usually involves opening the hood and identifying the air box and intake ducting.
- Removing the Metal Brace: In some models, like the example vehicle, a thin metal brace on the bulkhead needs to be removed. This is typically held in place by a couple of screws.
- Modifying the Air Duct: The “Hellcat” air duct, a key air intake car part, may require modifications to fit perfectly. This involves grinding notches into the duct to clear the headlight assembly and bulkhead. Exercise caution during grinding to avoid creating holes in the duct itself.
 and found my "Hellcat" air duct and side shield had come while I was away. I had today off to decompress from the F****** Silicon Valley drivers... really, how hard is it to merge onto the highway? Why do all four or five lanes come to a stop every time someone tries to merge from the on ramp? One day it took us 2 hours to drive 30 miles. At least the Dodge Grand Caravan Minivan rental didn't suck--I was pleasantly surprised at the performance of the V6 front wheel drive 6 speed auto--almost like driving the wife's Chrysler 200 (lots of Toyotas got schooled by the TorRed colored beast).
So today I installed the Hellcat air duct--not a job for those without a bench grinder, and a rather brutal headlight mod involving a hacksaw is required to make it work. The duct pops right into the AFE air box, but there is a thin metal brace on the bulkhead that has to be removed (2 screws). The duct itself has to have a couple notches ground into it, one to clear the hacked up headlight, and the other to clear the bulkhead. Be careful not to go too deep and make a hole in the duct. I covered my grinding with aluminum tape because it was ugly!!
I decided to keep the old radiator side shield that extends above and below the bumper, as the new one for the 2015 & up models is only the top portion. I had to cut a couple holes in the old side shield to get the duct through, then I had to cut up the new shield keeping only the portion with the rectangular opening, which I then attached to the old shield with several push pins.
The headlight has to have a major portion removed, but you have to be very careful not to cut off one of the reflector mounting studs. Lots of trial/error required to remove the correct amount of the headlight, one bit at a time, but it can be done. Once I got it all cut to fit and got all the plastic debris out of the inside (not much fun there) I covered the gaping holes with heavy aluminum tape (the stuff I use on my home swamp cooler ducting outside in the weather year round--this stuff is tough and doesn't come off without a fight).
Once done, only about 1/2 of the duct opening is visible through the grill, the bottom half is covered by the grill cross bar, but I believe that any air from outside is better than none! This is a time consuming chore on the 2011-14 models, but would be super easy on the 2015-17 models. Fifteen pics to follow:
