It’s tool review season again, and this time, we’re diving into the world of fender rolling. If you’re modifying your car for better wheel fitment, especially on low cars like Miatas, fender rolling is often a necessary evil. This review is about the Parts Shop Max fender roller, a tool designed for this specific task. Spoiler alert: it’s not going to be pretty.
(Fair warning: There might be some strong language ahead. This tool is exceptionally frustrating. Sorry, Mom.)
Unboxing Disappointment: Missing Parts (Instructions!)
The box arrived. Inside? The fender roller itself and a generous amount of packing peanuts. That’s it. Seriously, that’s all you get.
Here’s a list of what is conspicuously absent:
- Instructions of any kind!
- A parts list to verify contents!
- Even a basic receipt!
The tool sat there, coated in greasy packing peanuts. Not even a simple plastic bag protected the roller mechanism. Cleaning styrofoam out of the gears became an unwelcome pre-use ritual that took a solid 15 minutes. First impressions? Definitely not great. This lack of basic documentation is a major red flag, especially when dealing with tools that can potentially damage your car’s body parts if used incorrectly. Understanding the Parts Of A Car Fender and how they react to force is crucial in fender rolling, and proper instructions are paramount.
Performance and Destruction: A Lesson in Car Fender Fragility
Let me reiterate: there were absolutely NO instructions included. NONE. However, this wasn’t my first time rolling fenders. I’ve tackled this job on two previous Miatas. The first time, I relied on the caveman method – a hammer. The second time, I used the well-regarded Eastwood blue fender roller.
A quick note about the Eastwood roller: it’s a decent tool. I borrowed it from a friend who has since moved, otherwise, I would have never considered purchasing this Parts Shop Max… thing. The Eastwood tool felt robust and worked adequately. However, it presented a challenge on the Miata’s rear suspension due to its height. Aftermarket Miata rear shocks are often shorter, and the Eastwood tool barely fit. It was this tight fit that led me to believe the Parts Shop Max roller, supposedly designed for low cars, would be a better solution. Big mistake.
Now, regarding fender rollers and lug nuts. The Eastwood roller, as many online resources confirm, doesn’t require all four lug nuts to be used for secure mounting. Using the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions is typically sufficient. This is because the Eastwood tool’s fulcrum point is at the top of the roller (12 o’clock). The Parts Shop Max roller, however, positions the fulcrum at the bottom (6 o’clock). This means that all the force generated by this Max roller is concentrated at the bottom of the wheel hub, unlike the Eastwood which distributes it more evenly. This difference in design is critical and directly impacts how force is applied to the car fender parts.
My Parts Shop Max fender roller arrived with the bending arm attached to the hub pad using the lowest bolt hole. In the photo above, it’s shown using the highest bolt hole. “Highest” and “lowest” refer to the overall length adjustment of the bending arm. One hole positions the arm about an inch lower than the other.
Unbeknownst to me without instructions, using one of these holes will severely damage your lug studs. The other hole is necessary for the tool to function as intended and not destroy your car’s parts. Guess which hole I initially used? The lug stud destroying one.
Worse still, when the bending arm is mounted using the damaging bolt hole, there’s insufficient thread length to properly secure a lug nut on that lower stud! Zero threads are available. So, in my initial attempt, I didn’t use a lug nut on that lower stud. I only used the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock lug nuts, mimicking my experience with the Eastwood tool.
Remember how I mentioned the Max tool focuses all its force on the bottom of the hub? Yes, disaster ensued. Not only did the tool gouge a chunk out of Sharka’s lug stud, but the roller itself bent in half during the process. As I tightened the bending arm against the fender, the mounting pad began to warp. By the time I realized what was happening, it was bent about 10mm out of flat. This is a significant failure, highlighting the poor design and lack of user-friendliness of this tool, especially concerning delicate car fender parts.
All of this damage could have been avoided with a simple, badly photocopied instruction sheet. Or even a piece of tape on the tool stating, “USE ALL LUG NUTS.” Anything would have been helpful. But no, such consideration was apparently too much to ask. Instead, I received greasy foam peanuts and a frustrating hour wrestling with a hammer and bench vise to salvage my newly purchased, already broken tool.
Redemption? Salvaging the Situation and (Barely) Rolling Fenders
Yes, miraculously, I managed to repair the tool after almost completely breaking it. The mounting pad is made of an incredibly soft metal. I was able to hammer it mostly flat and then further flatten it using my bench vise. Afterward, I could finally secure four lug nuts onto the mounting pad (with the bending arm detached) and fully flatten it against the wheel hub.
I spent a considerable amount of time – a cold hour on the garage floor – meticulously examining this flimsy tool. I needed to understand exactly how each part functioned, the correct assembly method, and how to use it without causing further self-destruction. And after this extended troubleshooting session, I did successfully roll an entire Miata’s worth of fenders with it. It’s crucial to understand the structure and give of the car fender parts during this process, something this tool makes unnecessarily difficult.
The Few Positives:
- The rolling cylinder itself is surprisingly well-made. The material quality is commendable – solid yet not overly hard metal. It’s actually quite impressive.
- The bending arm offers a wide range of adjustability. It indeed posed no issues even with the short rear Miata shocks.
- I was able to fix it after breaking it, a testament to perseverance more than tool quality.
Conclusion: Steer Clear of This Fender Roller
DO NOT BUY THIS TOOL. Seriously, avoid the Parts Shop Max fender roller.
However, if you find yourself stuck with one, here are crucial tips learned the hard way:
- Always secure the roller to your hub using ALL lug nuts! This is non-negotiable to prevent damage to your lug studs and the tool itself.
- Ensure there is absolutely no gap between the mounting pad and the bending arm attachment point. Use the correct (6 o’clock) hole. Even a slight angle between the bending arm and the mounting pad can lead to tool failure. Make sure both surfaces are perfectly flush against each other.
- Constantly check that the roller isn’t rubbing against and damaging your lug studs.
- Be vigilant and ensure the roller isn’t bending itself in half as you tighten the arm against the fender. If you encounter resistance or bending, stop immediately.
Do yourself a massive favor and invest in the Eastwood roller instead. If you already own the Max roller, honestly, consider throwing it away. Your car’s fender parts and your sanity will thank you.
