Nestled just an hour east of Perth along the Brookton Highway, the Christmas Tree Well walk offers an immersive experience into Western Australia’s captivating Wandoo Woodlands. This off-track adventure, mapped by WalkGPS, provides a refreshing escape into nature, away from the more frequented trails. My recent journey through this less-travelled path revealed a landscape rich in diverse flora, intriguing granite formations, and the quiet beauty of the Australian bush.
Getting to the trailhead is straightforward. Heading east on Brookton Highway from Perth, keep an eye out for the Christmas Tree Well turnoff just before Yarra Road. It’s a gravel road that leads to a parking loop equipped with picnic benches, marking the start of your woodland exploration. While the initial sandy track to Christmas Tree Well itself is no longer accessible to 2WD vehicles, the parking area is easily reachable.
Embarking on the Christmas Tree Well Hike
After a summer filled with cycling and planning, the cooler embrace of Djeran, the Noongar season of autumn-early winter, signaled the perfect time for a return to hiking. This year, my focus shifted towards exploring the WalkGPS routes, particularly those within the Wandoo Woodlands east of Perth. These trails promise a rewarding experience regardless of water flow or wildflower abundance, though the latter is always a welcome bonus. Having previously enjoyed the Wundabiniring Walk, I was eager to discover more of these mapped routes, and Christmas Tree Well beckoned as my next destination.
Choosing Christmas Tree Well was driven by a memory of driving through this region in 2020 and being captivated by the alluring mixed forest. Despite a week of rain and more showers predicted, I hoped to find some early wildflowers and perhaps the first signs of fungi. However, even a simple walk through the serene forest was enough to spark my enthusiasm.
Arriving at the Christmas Tree Well parking area, my initial curiosity was piqued: Where exactly was the well, and where were these Christmas Trees? Equipped with my GPS and WalkGPS route loaded on my phone, I knew to head northwest from the car park. A sandy, somewhat worn track led me to the namesake of the trail. The Christmas Tree, or Nuytsia floribunda, is a striking native plant, renowned for its vibrant orange blossoms that illuminate the landscape in early summer. It’s also the world’s largest mistletoe species, holding significant cultural importance to the First Nations people.
The Moodja, as the Christmas Tree is known to the local Indigenous communities, is deeply respected. It’s considered a resting place for the soul and traditionally, people avoid touching the tree or seeking shade beneath it. This reverence was starkly contrasted by a recent incident where a gin distillery in the South West was found using Moodja flowers in their product, a move that sparked considerable disappointment and highlighted the ongoing need for cultural sensitivity and respect for native flora. For deeper insight into the cultural significance of the Moodja, the Anthropology from the Shed website offers valuable information, disentangling colonial misinterpretations surrounding its uses.
Reaching the small cluster of Christmas Trees, seemingly confined to this specific locale, I discovered the old well, now safely covered with metal wire. The area, characterized by thickets of Bracken Fern, clearly benefits from natural moisture, hence the well’s presence. However, the immediate surroundings presented a somewhat untidy scene – sandy vehicle tracks, litter from inconsiderate campers, and a distant, rather unappealing pine plantation. After navigating this initial section, I was relieved to be guided by the GPS into the adjoining woodland, marking the true beginning of a far more rewarding hike.
Venturing into the Wandoo Woodlands
Setting a northeast bearing, I immersed myself in the tranquil atmosphere of the mixed Jarrah and Wandoo woodlands. With my internal compass aligned, I could fully appreciate the beauty of the early morning forest. The initial 300 meters, while necessary to reach the well, paled in comparison to the enchanting walk that unfolded.
Keeping a keen eye out for wildflowers and fungi, the forest soon revealed its treasures. I spotted an Astraloma variety with its distinctive red, bottle-shaped flowers, vibrant Parrot Bush blossoms, and an abundance of Common Pin Heath (Styphelia tenuiflora). The open forest was a joy to traverse, with the diverse textures of Jarrah, Marri, and Wandoo trees offering endless photographic opportunities as I sought out the first waypoint – a Granite Tor. Slightly overshooting it to the north, I quickly corrected course to explore this rocky outcrop.
Continuing deeper, the quality of the forest was undeniable, even with subtle signs of past logging – a common narrative across Western Australia. Being within a State Forest, this isn’t unexpected, as these areas are often designated for future logging or mining. Yet, thankfully, pockets of healthy, mature woodland remained, testaments to less intensive forestry practices of the past. As the trail began a gentle descent, my wildflower anticipation grew, particularly for the early-blooming small red bottlebrushes typical of autumn.
Emerging into a sandy valley, the woodland opened up, and Grass Trees became more prominent, adding a unique dimension to the landscape. I was captivated by the subtle details – the mossy green hues clinging to tree bases, reminiscent of scenes from the Ministry of Magic. A fallen Grass Tree caught my eye, its golden orange core exposed, resembling a sleeping echidna.
Leaving the sandy valley and entering a denser section of woodland, the cloudy conditions proved ideal, diffusing the morning sunlight for even lighting. Reaching Yarra Road, the sudden appearance of a wide road felt like a momentary disruption from the off-track immersion. However, a delightful reward awaited on the other side. I had been hoping to spot Bunny Orchids, and right at the roadside edge, I found tiny early bloomers. Having recently seen many on the Stirling Ridge Walk further south, I was pleasantly surprised by this unexpected sighting at Christmas Tree Well.
Granite Outcrops and Wandoo Giants
Encouraged by my orchid discovery, I continued into the woodland, eager for more natural wonders. The area was dotted with magnificent old trees, their grandeur amplified by the relatively sparse undergrowth. My path led towards another waypoint, a granite section, a recurring feature on WalkGPS routes. Golden Wandoo trunks became increasingly common as the granite outcrop came into view, offering a welcome change from the continuous woodland walking. The landscape still appeared somewhat dry, diminishing my hopes of finding early-season Drosera. As anticipated, none were to be found. After a brief granite exploration break, I consulted the map and headed southwest towards a cluster of Grass Trees.
The mixed forest in this section felt different, situated on a slope that added dynamism to the terrain. Walking along the slope’s edge provided pleasant valley views, and I took care not to descend too far, as the notes indicated the next section involved a descent along a small ridgeline.
This part of the Christmas Tree Well hike proved particularly enjoyable, offering southern vistas before a gradual descent through stunning Wandoo woodland. A distant hill served as a natural focal point, adding an element of anticipation as it marked my eventual hiking direction. Reaching the valley floor, I encountered a wide expanse, sparse in areas yet home to some of the largest Wandoo trees I’d seen on the entire hike. Walking beneath these gentle giants felt special. However, the presence of weeds along this stretch hinted at past land use predating its State Forest designation.
Turning northwards, I focused on the positive aspects, and after crossing a dry creek bed, the hills ahead promised a return to more pristine forest. Passing through a dense Grass Tree thicket, I soon reached the hilltop, dominated by what appeared to be regrowth Wandoo, judging by their trunk size. Checking the trail notes, the next waypoint was described as a “small rounded hill (like giant ‘anthill’)”, and I immediately knew what was meant.
The anthill-like mound rose distinctly from the surrounding terrain. Wandering up to investigate, I found impressive Wandoo trees crowning the hill – an ideal spot for a break. After photographing the robust Wandoos and enjoying the limited panoramic views, I paused for a Clif Bar and a progress check. I had reached the northernmost point of the route, with the next leg heading east, then south, to complete the loop back to the start. Refueled, I set off towards the next waypoint, the scenery ahead promising further delights.
Another small laterite-capped hill marked the next waypoint, followed by a sharp turn south. This area, characterized by Wandoo woodland nestled between small hills, felt particularly special, a contrast to the flatter, more open initial section. Navigation was straightforward, and the walk through this secluded area was a true pleasure. Reaching a slope edge, the trail followed the contour, hopping from rock to rock, offering beautiful forest vistas below. Eventually, a descent was necessary.
As I carefully navigated a rocky patch, a flash of white caught my eye – another Bunny Orchid, peeking out from the undergrowth. Continuing on, the trail traced the lower hill slopes, occasionally ascending over smaller rises. The woodland, even under cloudy skies, was visually stunning, with numerous mature Wandoos brightening the landscape. Along this section, I encountered more flowering Parrot Bush, Grass Tree spikes, and old Zamia Palm seed cones. Spotting a few actual anthills fueled a fleeting hope of seeing an echidna, but past hiking experiences tempered my expectations.
Awaiting ahead, after a stretch of Wandoo-dominated terrain, was a small granite outcrop. Climbing another small hill, the granite came into view, and I eagerly approached. Nestled within a She-Oak grove, this granite section felt distinct from the preceding scenery, a welcome change. The granite extended uphill, culminating in a cluster of boulders that formed a natural viewing platform.
Homeward Bound and Final Reflections
Taking in the views and capturing photos of the distant hills, I didn’t linger long, sensing the approaching rain and mindful of the remaining hour of hiking. The granite exploration wasn’t over yet, as the next waypoint indicated another low granite outcrop. Descending the hill, I saw it was larger but appeared somewhat bleak. Upon arrival, the area seemed worse for wear, possibly due to a past burn or the effects of a harsh summer. Regardless, I anticipated it would recover beautifully with winter rains. Pushing through some dead undergrowth, I reached the stream crossing. Once across, the landscape transformed back into pleasant forest, marking my turn westward for the return journey.
Walking near the stream, the Wandoo trees were particularly striking, and the birdlife was notably active. Although elusive for clear photos, I managed a distant shot of what looked like a Rosella. Crossing the stream again at a smaller granite section helped me reorient myself, having veered slightly too south.
Ascending a hill, I paused to observe bees busily foraging on early wildflowers. This marked the start of a delightful stretch through predominantly Jarrah and Grass Tree forest. While parts felt somewhat uniform, the combination of moody skies, the scent of impending rain, and the uninterrupted forest immersion was truly captivating. The only minor detraction was the distant, less-than-harmonious sounds of Brookton Highway – dirt bikes, rumbling V8s, and the occasional chainsaw, likely from illegal firewood collection.
Reaching the sandy expanse just before Yarra Road, the firewood collector seemed to be operating on Yarra Road itself, though too far to note their license plate. Undeterred, I crossed the road, focused on completing the walk. As I neared Christmas Tree Well, the rain began, a refreshing shower to conclude the hike. I enjoy walking in the rain, and with no more photos needed as I approached the less appealing pine plantation area, I embraced the experience, having missed proper rainy walks.
Returning to the car, I changed into dry clothes and reflected on another excellent WalkGPS route as the rain intensified. Dave’s meticulously mapped off-track walks truly excel in providing rewarding experiences during the pre-winter period, often surpassing the official Darling Scarp trails in their natural charm.
While named after the initial well, the true allure of this hike lies in the surrounding woodlands. The Christmas Tree Well area itself feels somewhat marred by human impact, making the exploration of the less disturbed woodland sections all the more valuable.
It’s worth noting a humorous discovery – a public AllTrails listing of Dave’s route, uploaded by someone else. The reviews from hikers expecting a marked trail were amusing, highlighting the potential pitfalls of user-driven trail platforms.
Although perhaps not the most spectacular WalkGPS route I’ve undertaken, the Christmas Tree Well hike offered a fantastic escape on a gloomy Saturday morning, introducing me to a previously unexplored part of Western Australia. I suspect that late winter through spring would transform this area into a wildflower paradise, a compelling reason for a return visit in optimal conditions.
So, venture out and discover the Christmas Tree Well walk for yourself! You’ll find a unique off-track hiking experience within easy reach of Perth, offering a tranquil immersion into the beauty of the Wandoo Woodlands.
For more Perth day hike inspiration, click here.
