Embarking on the journey of crafting your own miniature remote control car, specifically at the 1/64 scale, opens up a fascinating world of detail and customization. While larger scale RC vehicles might seem more straightforward, the intricacy of 1/64 scale models presents a unique and rewarding challenge. This guide delves into the essential 1/64 Scale Rc Car Parts required to bring these tiny speed demons to life, drawing upon practical experience and offering insights for both beginners and seasoned hobbyists.
Choosing the Right Body for Your 1/64 Scale RC Car
The body is the first point of visual connection with your miniature RC car. For 1/64 scale projects, die-cast models offer an excellent starting point due to their readily available nature and variety of styles. Brands like Auto World are known for their 1/64 scale models that feature scale rubber wheels, enhancing realism right out of the box. Hot Wheels, while sometimes offering less internal space due to their compact designs, are popular for their iconic American muscle cars and land yachts, providing a wealth of aesthetic options.
Majorette die-cast models, often slightly larger at 1:61 scale, can be advantageous for beginners. The marginal increase in size provides a bit more room to accommodate the necessary electronic components. Models like the BMW X6 SUV or Chevy Silverado, with their larger bodies and wheelbases, are particularly forgiving for first-time builders. Even the Majorette Mustang Boss, at 1:61 scale, offers that crucial extra space without sacrificing the visual appeal of a Hot Wheels-sized car, and often comes with more scale-appropriate narrow wheels.
Preparing the body involves carefully removing it from its original chassis, typically by drilling out the rivet heads. Once detached, grinding away unnecessary internal metal tabs creates valuable space within the body. To ensure smooth steering, beveling or using a Dremel tool to modify the inside of the wheel arches is essential for tire clearance. For models with integrated windshields and rear windows, separating and individually gluing them in place can save precious headroom under the roof, particularly useful for accommodating the steering servo.
For those seeking a more custom approach, DIY bodies can be constructed from thin electrical circuit board material (around 1/16 inch or 1.5mm thick). Soldering the corners for structure, then sanding and covering the exterior with colored contact film offers a clean finish and avoids the complexities of paintwork. If using circuit board, remember to grind off excess copper from the inside to enhance RC radio reception, especially if employing an internal short antenna.
Wheels and Tires: Ensuring Scale Realism and Performance
Wheels are critical for both the aesthetic and functional aspects of your 1/64 scale RC car. Original wheels from Hot Wheels and Majorette, while made of slippery plastic, can be modified for better performance. Narrowing the width to achieve a more realistic scale look is often necessary. To improve traction, covering the tread area with black heat shrink rubber tubing and sanding it provides enhanced grip. An alternative method involves stretching dental rubber bands over the plastic wheels, gluing them if needed, and coloring them black with a permanent ink pen for a uniform look. Auto World die-cast models are noted for featuring nice, thin scale rubber tires right from the factory, though availability may vary geographically.
To address the issue of wheel wobble, common even in new die-cast models, small pieces of tubing or bushings from disposable cigarette lighters can be glued inside the wheel’s axle hole. This adds stability, especially after grinding down the wheel’s inner side for width reduction, which can compromise the original nipple that provides axle stability.
For DIY truck and bus tires, small rubber fuel line (approximately 11mm outer diameter and 5mm inner diameter) stretched over thin plastic tubes serves as a viable option for wheel centers. While dedicated 1/64 slot car parts, including wheels and tires, are available online, they come at an added cost. DIY tires for trucks and buses can be crafted to around 12-14mm in diameter and 2.5-4mm in width, depending on the vehicle type. Heating rubber fuel line in boiling water makes it easier to slip over plastic grommets or tubes, which can then be shaped to the desired wheel width using a drill and Dremel. Adjusting the inner diameter of the wheel centers to match the axles can be achieved using thin plastic tubes or K&S brass tubing.
Front axles for DIY wheels can be fashioned from small screws and nuts, similar to those used in eyeglasses. For Hot Wheels or Majorette car wheels, axles can be made from halved original axles, sewing pins, needles, or spring piano wire, with jewelry glass beads glued to the ends to retain the wheels. Faller Car System and similar brands offer detailed tires, wheels, and complete front steering axles, providing pre-made solutions that simplify the process if the dimensions align with your project and preferences.
DIY Front Pivoting Box Axle: Steering Mechanism for Miniature RC Cars
A crucial aspect of creating functional 1/64 scale RC cars is the steering mechanism. A DIY front pivoting box axle, inspired by the Faller Car System, offers a compact and effective solution. This design features a tie rod link positioned above a box that pivots on a horizontal wire glued to the car chassis.
The central pivoting axle section can be constructed from 0.5mm thick (20 thou) brass sheet folded into a square U-shape. Alternatively, using 4mm (or 5/32″) K&S square brass tubing simplifies the process. The outer steering knuckles are made from 3mm (or 1/8″) square brass tubing, designed to fit neatly inside the center pivot section and pivot on sewing pins. Drilling with a 0.5-0.7mm bit and adding a touch of glue to the pin head allows for easy assembly and removal. While small screws from optometrists can be used, sewing pins offer a smoother and more efficient alternative to tapping threads.
The tie rod link is crafted from a flat piece of 0.5mm brass, approximately 1.5-2mm wide. The length of the tie rod, measured between hole centers, should match the distance between the knuckle king pins. Experimentation with slightly shorter tie rods (1-1.5mm shorter) can introduce a small Ackerman angle, causing the inside wheel to turn sharper, though the impact may be minimal. Excessive Ackerman angle can lead to wheel skid and binding.
For optimal steering performance, ensure that all components are parallel, plumb, and square. Pivot points should form equal-sided rectangles from any viewing angle, eliminating toe-in, camber, castor, or any other angles. Hole centers for trucks are typically around 18mm and 6mm, while cars are closer to 16mm and 5mm. Careful attention to knuckle length is needed to prevent them from catching on mudguards during turns. While achieving perfect precision can be challenging, slight imperfections will generally not hinder functionality. The tie rod can be connected to the knuckles using epoxy or solder to secure pins, or by using a plastic tie rod link screwed into place.
The steering arm push rod, linking the servo arm to the tie rod, can be fashioned from a sewing pin. Applying heat before bending creates cleaner right angles. Jewelry beads can be used as lock collars to prevent the push rod from detaching or binding. DIY servo control arm horns, cut from 0.5mm brass sheet, are essential due to the limited space inside the cars. A smaller head screw is preferable for attachment, especially near the windshield. Tiny glass jewelry beads (around 0.8mm inner and 1.5mm outer diameter) can serve as axle wheel nuts, ball bearings, thrust bearings, or bushes. Small plastic jewelry discs (3mm and 4mm round) can function as washers. The main center pivot point often utilizes 1.2mm piano spring wire, secured to the aluminum chassis with epoxy. Design the vehicle track width to be slightly narrower (1-3mm) than the body’s mudguard width.
Vehicle Chassis: The Foundation of Your Miniature RC Car
The chassis provides the structural base for all components of your 1/64 scale RC car. Thin aluminum box sections, around 0.5mm thick and 25mm wide, are ideal due to their ease of cutting, grinding, and shaping. However, some die-cast bodies may require narrower chassis, around 23mm wide. Thin brass or folded aluminum can also serve as suitable chassis materials.
A 25mm wide chassis typically requires cutouts to accommodate the rear wheels. Once the chassis is fabricated and tested, the rear servo drive motor, switch, and charging socket are epoxied onto it. The body can then be press-fitted onto the aluminum chassis, eliminating the need for screws. Foam or tape can be used to fill any gaps and ensure a snug fit.
Magnetic Front Suspension: Enhancing Realism and Off-Road Capability
For those aiming to incorporate suspension into their 1/64 scale RC cars, especially for off-road or uneven surfaces, magnetic front suspension offers an innovative approach. Utilizing small neodymium magnets (3mm diameter and 1mm thick, or ideally 4x2mm) allows for a compact suspension system.
Extend a piece of brass forward from the front pivot box axle by about 3mm and glue a magnet on each side at the top. Then, glue another pair of magnets under the hood area, directly above the first pair. Additional magnets can be added (without glue) to adjust suspension firmness. These magnets begin to repel noticeably around 10-12mm apart and provide firm resistance at about 3mm separation. This magnetic suspension system significantly improves stability, especially on uneven terrain or when tilting the vehicle, helping to prevent rollovers by supplementing the stability provided by the fixed rear axle.
Steering Servos: Precision Control in a Miniature Form Factor
Steering servos are vital for responsive and accurate control. For 1/64 scale RC cars, the 8mm wide EMax ES9251 servo (or Turnigy MX-96E, which is identical) with 0.27kg torque at 4.8V is a commonly used option. To fit these servos into the tight spaces of small car bodies, the side tabs often need to be cut off, and sometimes the sharp corners sanded down.
Hobby King HK-5320 servos, at just 6.2mm wide and operating at a maximum of 4.2V, offer an even slimmer profile. These servos, equipped with 1.25mm micro JST plugs compatible with the VD5M FrSky receiver, could be a better fit for particularly small cars. However, their torque is lower at 0.075kg, which may be sufficient for steering but requires testing for drive motor applications. The HK-5330 servo, with 0.17kg torque at 4.8V and dimensions of 20 x 13 x 6.2mm, appears more suitable for a drive motor power servo. Experimentation with these different servos is encouraged to determine the best fit for specific 1/64 scale RC car builds.
Motors and ESC Control: Powering Your Miniature Machine
Motors and Electronic Speed Controllers (ESCs) are the heart of your RC car’s propulsion system. For these miniature builds, modified servos often serve as both motor and ESC. Small cars can utilize modified ES9251 servos, sometimes employing either the original 6 gears or a reduced set of 4 gears. Medium-sized vehicles may use 4g EMax ES9051 servos, while larger trucks and buses can employ EMax ES09MD (or ES09A) servos, which, while powerful, are more complex to modify due to their construction.
Spare motors, ranging from 4mm, 6mm, to 8mm in diameter, are readily available online at affordable prices, making replacements easy if needed. Certain micro receivers incorporate a built-in forward/reverse ESC designed to control brushed motors with low milliampere requirements, simplifying the electronics setup.
Batteries: Compact Power for Extended Play
Powering 1/64 scale RC cars requires compact and lightweight batteries. eBay is a common source for various battery options. For the smallest cars, 3.7V 150mAh LiPo batteries (approximately 22 x 20 x 3-4mm) are suitable. Medium-sized cars, SUVs, and pickups can accommodate slightly larger 3.7V 240-300mAh LiPo batteries (around 30 x 20 x 5 or 7mm). These larger batteries can often fit low between the longer wheelbases of these vehicles without interfering with steering, provided the wheelbase is at least 46mm. The die-cast vehicle’s wheelbase largely dictates the maximum battery size that can be fitted.
Alternatively, 3 x 1.2V 250-400mAh NiMH 1/2AAA cells can be used, though these result in a bulkier battery pack (approximately 31mm long by 22mm wide by 10.3mm high) compared to LiPo options. Larger vehicles like riot trucks, tow trucks, and buses can utilize even bigger batteries, such as 3 or 4 cell AAA 900mAh NiMH packs, for extended run times.
Receivers: Wireless Command in a Tiny Package
Receivers are essential for wirelessly controlling your 1/64 scale RC car. The FrSky VD5M 5-channel receiver, operating at 3-7.2V and measuring just 22 x 18.5 x 5-9mm, is a popular choice for its compact size. While it lacks telemetry and failsafe features, it functions down to around 2.8V, though operating LiPo batteries at such low voltages is not recommended for battery health.
For transmitters, the Taranis TX offers flexible programming options, such as servo slowing and time delay, which can smooth out jerky steering movements and throttle inputs, crucial for precise control at this scale. Spektrum-compatible receivers are also used by hobbyists, and smaller 5-7 channel receivers are available for even tighter spaces, particularly useful for those using Spektrum transmitters or Taranis transmitters with external Spektrum modules.
The VD5M receiver uses mini 1.25mm spaced pin JST-style 3-pin plugs. Pre-wired male plug leads with matching female sockets (available on eBay) simplify wiring connections to servos. For charging sockets, the female sockets included with these leads can be utilized. In extremely space-constrained builds, hardwiring servos directly to the receiver by soldering, after removing the receiver’s cardboard cover and white plugs, can save a few millimeters in height and thickness. The VD5M features a short 30mm antenna wire, easily concealed within a car body. Notably, multiple receivers can be bound to a single transmitter simultaneously, allowing control of multiple vehicles with channel switching for throttle and potentially utilizing flight mode switches to manage steering parameters for different vehicles.
A creative side idea involves incorporating micro reed switches in the vehicles to disable steering servos when parked over neodymium magnets embedded under a display surface, adding a unique parking feature. Another interesting concept utilizes magnets in the rear of Faller buses and trucks with reed switches in the front to create a collision avoidance system.
On/Off Switches: Managing Power in Confined Spaces
Power switches for 1/64 scale RC cars need to be compact. Red circuit board mounted DIP switches, commonly found on eBay (approximately 10mm long x 7mm high x 4.5mm wide), are often used. These can be further reduced in size by grinding down each dimension by 1-2mm if necessary. Despite their small size, they can still seem bulky in the tight confines of these miniature cars. Exploring even smaller switch options or alternative on/off solutions is an ongoing area of interest for builders. Avoiding disconnecting the battery directly for power management is preferable due to the inconvenience and fragility of connections at this scale.
HO Scale Universal Joints for 4WD Steering: Enabling All-Wheel Drive
For more advanced 1/64 scale RC car projects, particularly those aiming for 4-wheel drive with steering, HO scale universal joints become relevant. While some German businesses offer laser-cut steel blanks for DIY folding and soldering of tiny universal joints, plastic universals for HO trains might still be too large for 1/64 scale applications.
DIY universal joints can be crafted from 0.5mm sheet brass. Cutting 3mm strips, drilling drive shaft holes, and folding them into a U-shape (approximately 3 x 3 x 3mm) forms the basis. Pivot holes (0.7mm) are then drilled for the center cross piece. Excess brass around the pivot holes needs to be ground away to prevent binding. The center cross piece can be cut from thin steel mesh. After assembly, the universal joints will be around 3mm in diameter and 6mm long, capable of operating up to 30-35 degree angles.
Necklace chain, specifically the type resembling 4-sided boxes linked together (approximately 1.5mm square), offers an alternative for creating very compact universal joints. This chain can bend tightly within a 5mm radius over a 7mm length, potentially allowing for 45-degree steering swivel within a 4-5mm length. Electrical soldering necklace chain ends to pin heads and 1mm wire can be used for testing, though silver soldering is recommended for better strength.
Re-drilling drive shaft holes after folding the U-shape and slightly tapering the drive shaft ends aids in assembly and soldering. Leaving extra length on steering parts during fabrication and trimming to final size last is advisable. Batch-making multiple steering pieces simultaneously can improve efficiency and consistency.
Tools of the Trade: Essential Implements for Miniature RC Car Building
Building 1/64 scale RC cars requires precision and specialized tools. A drill with a sharp chuck capable of securely holding small drill bits (or using cello tape to increase drill bit shaft diameter for better grip) is essential. Drill bit sizes ranging from 0.5mm to 4mm are commonly needed. A Dremel-type rotary tool with various attachments, including grinding and cutting discs (stronger discs can be made from industrial cutting discs), rotary burrs, sanding drums, and diamond burrs, is indispensable for cutting, grinding, and shaping parts.
Other essential tools include an Exacto knife, small and large pliers, tin snips, side cutters, micro screwdrivers, a soldering iron and workstation clamps, a magnifying glass, a hammer, a ruler, and a small file set. While not strictly necessary, a vice and dial calipers, and a mini drill press can significantly enhance precision and ease of construction.
With the right 1/64 scale rc car parts, tools, and a patient approach, crafting your own miniature RC vehicles becomes a highly rewarding and engaging hobby. The tips and techniques outlined here provide a solid foundation for starting your own journey into the world of micro RC car building.
